As summer enters its final month, the fashion industry is gearing up for another show season, but it’s starting with a New York Fashion Week that’s a bit different from seasons past.
The biggest news for the spring 2020 collections is that NYFW will be on a shorter official schedule, down to six days of shows listed on the calendar released by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The initiative to trim down the schedule was spearheaded by the CFDA’s new chairman, designer Tom Ford, who assumed the role from longtime CFDA head, Diane von Furstenberg, in June. Upon his appointment as CFDA chairman, Ford said reinventing NYFW was a top priority.
From which designers are showing to Ford’s role as CFDA chairman, here is what to expect from NYFW spring 2020.
1. A shorter schedule for NYFW spring 2020:
This September, the Council of Fashion Designers of America is introducing a shorter, more compact schedule for New York Fashion Week, decreasing to six days of runway shows and presentations. The schedule will now begin on Friday, Sept. 6 and will end on Wednesday, Sept. 11 with Marc Jacobs, who will close the season once again.
2. Designers pull shows from Hudson Yards following backlash against Stephen Ross:
Backlash against chairman Stephen Ross was swift when news broke that the Hudson Yards real estate developer was hosting a fundraiser for President Donald Trump at his Hamptons home with tickets going up to $250,000. The news has led to many fashion designers pulling their upcoming NYFW shows from Hudson Yards.
3. This is the first NYFW with Tom Ford as CFDA chairman:
This NYFW season marks the first for Tom Ford in his new role as chairman of the CFDA, succeeding Diane von Furstenberg, who held the role for 13 years. When it was revealed that Ford would take on the role, it was reported that one of the critical topics at the top of his agenda was reinventing NYFW, potentially moving its venue to The Shed at the recently opened Hudson Yards. The official venue for NYFW will remain at Spring Studios for this upcoming season.
4. Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya move their show from Paris to New York:
Tommy Hilfiger is teaming with actress Zendaya once again for his TommyNow fashion show, this time bringing the event back to NYFW. The show will take place at the Apollo Theater in Harlem on Sept. 8 at 8:30 p.m. marking the second time the designer and actress are linking for the show, which was held in Paris in March. The Paris runway show gave a nod to the actual models who walked the runway at the historic “Battle of Versailles” fashion show competition in 1973, including Pat Cleveland and Beverly Johnson. Top models Halima Aden, Winnie Harlow and Jourdan Dunn also walked the disco-themed runway. Hilfiger’s upcoming show is said to continue the themes of inclusion, diversity and empowerment seen at his prior shows.
5. NYFW designers schedule change-up:
While he has regularly opened NYFW in the past, Tom Ford is moving his show to Monday, Sept. 9, at 8 p.m. The official CFDA calendar lists Telfar as the opening show, with the brand putting on a performance at 6 p.m. on Friday, Sept. 6, for its collection.
Ralph Lauren, for another, is moving his show to a nighttime slot on Saturday, Sept. 7, at 9 p.m. Last season, the designer hosted his show in the morning at Ralph’s Coffee — an intimate eatery installed in his women’s flagship store on Madison Avenue. Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond will also be returning to the NYFW schedule after skipping last season, with a show slated for Saturday, Sept. 7, at 8 p.m.
6. Georgina Chapman is presenting her first solo Marchesa collection:
After the departure of the brand’s co founder, Keren Craig, in June, Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman will go forward with her first solo collection. Instead of a presentation or runway show, Chapman is hosting private appointments for the brand’s spring 2020 collection on Wednesday, Sept. 11.
-By Layla Ilchi WWD