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What To Expect At NYFW This Year

As summer enters its final month, the fashion industry is gearing up for another show season, but it’s starting with a New York Fashion Week that’s a bit different from seasons past.

The biggest news for the spring 2020 collections is that NYFW will be on a shorter official schedule, down to six days of shows listed on the calendar released by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The initiative to trim down the schedule was spearheaded by the CFDA’s new chairman, designer Tom Ford, who assumed the role from longtime CFDA head, Diane von Furstenberg, in June. Upon his appointment as CFDA chairman, Ford said reinventing NYFW was a top priority.

From which designers are showing to Ford’s role as CFDA chairman, here is what to expect from NYFW spring 2020.

1. A shorter schedule for NYFW spring 2020:

This September, the Council of Fashion Designers of America is introducing a shorter, more compact schedule for New York Fashion Week, decreasing to six days of runway shows and presentations. The schedule will now begin on Friday, Sept. 6  and will end on Wednesday, Sept. 11 with Marc Jacobs, who will close the season once again.

2. Designers pull shows from Hudson Yards following backlash against Stephen Ross:

Backlash against chairman Stephen Ross was swift when news broke that the Hudson Yards real estate developer was hosting a fundraiser for President Donald Trump at his Hamptons home with tickets going up to $250,000. The news has led to many fashion designers pulling their upcoming NYFW shows from Hudson Yards.

 

3. This is the first NYFW with Tom Ford as CFDA chairman:

Tom Ford was photographed Aug. 27 at Milk Studios in Hollywood.

This NYFW season marks the first for Tom Ford in his new role as chairman of the CFDA, succeeding Diane von Furstenberg, who held the role for 13 years. When it was revealed that Ford would take on the role, it was reported that one of the critical topics at the top of his agenda was reinventing NYFW, potentially moving its venue to The Shed at the recently opened Hudson Yards. The official venue for NYFW will remain at Spring Studios for this upcoming season.

4. Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya move their show from Paris to New York:

Zendaya, Tommy Hilfiger and models on the catwalkTommy Hilfiger show, Runway, Spring 2019, Paris Fashion Week, France - 02 Mar 2019

Tommy Hilfiger is teaming with actress Zendaya once again for his TommyNow fashion show, this time bringing the event back to NYFW. The show will take place at the Apollo Theater in Harlem on Sept. 8 at 8:30 p.m. marking the second time the designer and actress are linking for the show, which was held in Paris in March. The Paris runway show gave a nod to the actual models who walked the runway at the historic “Battle of Versailles” fashion show competition in 1973, including Pat Cleveland and Beverly Johnson. Top models Halima Aden, Winnie Harlow and Jourdan Dunn also walked the disco-themed runway. Hilfiger’s upcoming show is said to continue the themes of inclusion, diversity and empowerment seen at his prior shows.

 

5. NYFW designers schedule change-up:

Image result for NYFW

While he has regularly opened NYFW in the past, Tom Ford is moving his show to Monday, Sept. 9, at 8 p.m. The official CFDA calendar lists Telfar as the opening show, with the brand putting on a performance at 6 p.m. on Friday, Sept. 6, for its collection.

Ralph Lauren, for another, is moving his show to a nighttime slot on Saturday, Sept. 7, at 9 p.m. Last season, the designer hosted his show in the morning at Ralph’s Coffee — an intimate eatery installed in his women’s flagship store on Madison Avenue. Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond will also be returning to the NYFW schedule after skipping last season, with a show slated for Saturday, Sept. 7, at 8 p.m.

6. Georgina Chapman is presenting her first solo Marchesa collection:

Image result for georgina chapman

After the departure of the brand’s co founder, Keren Craig, in June, Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman will go forward with her first solo collection. Instead of a presentation or runway show, Chapman is hosting private appointments for the brand’s spring 2020 collection on Wednesday, Sept. 11.

-By Layla Ilchi WWD

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Rihanna x LVMH Fashion House Coming Soon…

LVMH and Rihanna have been in secret talks to launch a luxury house under her name, according to multiple sources.

Rihanna is getting ready for her next act in fashion, and with the world’s largest luxury group as her partner.

According to multiple sources, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and the music sensation have been in secret discussions to launch a luxury house under her name. That would make it the first fashion brand industry titan Bernard Arnault has launched from scratch since Christian Lacroix in 1987.

LVMH has already handpicked a clutch of employees from within, including some from Louis Vuitton and Celine, to work on the project in tandem with Rihanna and some of her key associates, sources said.

Details about the launch and its timing could not immediately be learned. LVMH officials declined comment Wednesday.

On Tuesday, the Internet lit up with speculation about the origins of the bold, gold shades Rihanna wore while stepping out in Manhattan — her Fenty brand name spelled out across the temples. Sources said the music star was simply test-driving a prototype, while dropping a colossal tease about her next major foray beyond music.

Rihanna has demonstrated a serious interest in, and influence on, fashion — along with formidable design chops and acute instincts — with her recent tenure as the creative director of Puma, energizing the German activewear brand with her Fenty by Puma project, and following it up with successful forays into beauty and lingerie — the former with LVMH-controlled Kendo; the latter with California-based TechStyle Fashion Group.

Her public appearances generally stir the paparazzi, and her fans, into a frenzy, with outfits ranging from sultry off-the-shoulder styles to streetwear to, at the Met Ball, showstopping numbers that are the highlight of the occasion. In May, for example, she wore a Maison Margiela crystal-encrusted gown and bolero jacket, complete with a hat resembling a bishop’s mitre.

Rihanna in Maison Margiela, Met Gala 2018

It is understood her collection with LVMH will span ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories, and could be released in tandem with her ninth album, expected out sometime later this year, one source said.

For LVMH, the Rihanna line signals a further move outside its comfort zone of heritage brands as it continues to diversify its holdings, having recently invested $2.6 billion in luxury travel operator Belmond Ltd., owner of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train and hotels including the Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro.

Kendo, which functions as an incubator making products that end up being retailed by LVMH’s Sephora perfumery chain and other outposts, signed on Rihanna in 2016. Her Fenty Beauty products racked up sales north of $100 million in a matter of weeks, and was hailed as a transformative brand.

It also cemented Rihanna as one of the hottest-selling celebrities in the world of licensing.

Just a year after its launch, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna is a digital innovator and champion for diversity, using its platforms — 6.3 million Instagram followers, 490,000 YouTube subscribers and 372,000 Twitter followers — to showcase makeup on women of all complexions and sizes. The brand engages with its followers regularly, reposting user-generated content and collaborating with avid fans on videos and posts.

Rihanna’s proximity to LVMH stretches back to at least 2015. After attending shows for Christian Dior, one of Arnault’s most treasured fashion properties, she appeared in “Secret Garden IV,” a campaign and short film shot by Steven Klein inside Versailles. It featured her in Dior sunglasses, carrying the brand’s bags and wearing looks from the Esprit Dior collection.

A year later, she created a range of futuristic sunglasses in collaboration with Dior as part of her brand ambassadorship.

Sources inside LVMH describe her as a hands-on type who is extensively involved in product development. It is understood LVMH started assembling her fashion team about six months ago in Paris, with the project being overseen by Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, a stable of fashion houses that includes Givenchy, Celine, Kenzo and Marc Jacobs.

Rihanna’s talent and beauty have made her a favorite of fashion designers worldwide. The Barbados native has previously modeled for Gucci, Emporio Armani and Balmain.

She made her debut in design in 2013 with British high-street brand River Island, creating a collection of clothing and accessories.

“Launching at London Fashion Week is a dream come true for me,” she said at the time. “I have wanted to design my own collection for a long time and to present my collection for River Island alongside all of the other great design talent at LFW is a real privilege. I can’t wait to see the reaction from my fans and the fashion press.”

While at Puma, Rihanna staged high-energy shows — one featuring motorcycle acrobats — in Paris and New York. Indicative of her wide appeal, her collection landed at Bergdorf Goodman in New York and spawned a consumer frenzy — and knockoffs galore — for several hit shoe styles, including creepers and furry shower slides.

TechStyle co-ceo Adam Goldenberg told WWD in a recent interview that he chose Rihanna because he needed “the right partner to bring instant credibility and exposure” to a new proposition in the lingerie category.

He confirmed her deep involvement in products that bear her Fenty brand name. “Every single item we have designed she has been involved in the process and seen it on a model, made her own adjustments, decided if we are going to bring it in stock, down to every element of the campaign,” he said.

Source:WWD

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